What creates these big waves that daredevil surfers would travel across the world to ride? According to Weather.com meteorologist Chris Dolce, the wave heights and interval between waves are dictated by the strength of the winds, the duration of the winds and how far they blow over the ocean.
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Surfing the Biggest Waves
Banzai Pipeline, located off the North Shore in Oahu, Hawaii is considered the mecca of surfing, with a legendary tubular wave created where the shallow water and coral shelf combine to resemble pipes, according to NorthShore.com. Home to many surfing competitions, such as the Pipe Masters, surf pros come here to ride some of the biggest, most treacherous waves in the world. In the winter, the waves are known to reach up to 30 feet high before they pound the sandy shores. Depending on size, the Pipe breaks over one of three reefs, according to Surfline.com: the famous steep First Reef, which breaks most often and has more impact, the Backdoor train, the Second Reef with large unbroken wave faces, and the rarely-surfed Third Reef with extra-large waves.
Often considered the world's deadliest wave, several professional surfers and photographers have been killed at the Pipe, including Tahitian Malik Joyeux, who was known for riding Teahupoo, another surf break famed for its epic waves.
http://www.weather.com/sports-rec/most-dangerous-waves-world-photos-20130830
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